In Palermo, Sicily, potato croquettes are a favorite street food, much like French fries are in America. There are several stands at the famed Ballarò food market, that fry them to order (called crocché), often to accompany fried eggplant or panelle (chickpea fritter) sandwiches. Growing up in a Sicilian family, I trembled with excitement every time my Nonna said she was making potato croquettes.
As I describe in my autobiography, The Wrong Side of the Room: A Life in Music Theater, I had a penchant for neologisms as a child. For example, I termed potato croquettes Teddy bears, and the entire extended family adopted this term. My reasoning was that the coating looked exactly like the fabric that covered my ratty old Teddy bear, which was a hand-me-down from my father’s childhood.
Both in my family and in the Palermo markets, the croquettes are simple affairs: mashed potatoes, eggs, parsley, cheese, and breadcrumbs. However, I wanted to add a bit more complexity of flavor to them, so I began experimenting.
I begin by roasting garlic and shallots. Cut off the top third of two garlic heads, drizzle with virgin olive oil. Wrap them in foil and roast for about an hour at 350° until they are golden and very soft.
Cut top third off garlic head, drizzle with oil.
Roast garlic until golden brown.
Place two medium shallots with their skins on in a small baking dish with about 1 cup of water and roast for about hour at the same time the garlics are roasting.
Unpeeled shallots covered in water.
I decided I wanted a more herbed flavor than just parsley so, in addition, I chopped a tablespoon each of fresh thyme leaves and fresh oregano.
Clockwise from left: parsley, thyme, oregano.
I mash my potatoes with a ricer.
Forcing potatoes through a ricer.
Add 3 tablespoons of melted butter, plus the roasted garlic, shallots, and salt to taste. Do not add milk or cream or you will have too soft a mixture to hold its shape. I incorporate these ingredients into a smooth paste by using a potato masher.
Mashing in herbs, garlic, shallots, and butter.
Roll into fat sausage shapes about 2½ inches long. Roll in fine dry bread crumbs until thoroughly coated. Then chill for at least one hour.
Rolling croquettes in breadcrumbs.
Breaded croquettes.
Fry in enough vegetable or olive oil to cover more than half of the croquettes. Carefully turn and fry the other side.
Frying croquettes.
I find that the croquettes are tastier if you don’t serve them piping hot. They are best warm.
Serve croquettes warm.
To print or download the recipe, click here.
To check out my autobiography, The Wrong Side of the Room: A Life in Music Theater, click here.
