Zuccotto Fiorentino is an elaborate dessert of sponge cake and cream fillings that is popular in Florence. It is said to have been created during the Medici era by Bernardo Buontalenti. Here is a short history of the dessert. There are virtually hundreds of different recipes for Zuccotto Fiorentino, many of which use ricotta and candied fruits as a filling. My more contemporary version employs two different whipped-cream fillings. The one constant seems to be the dome-shape of the dessert, which in my version is decorated to imitate the dome of the Duomo, Florence’s famed cathedral.
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Although not a quick-to-assemble dessert, Zuccotto Fiorentino can be made in stages. The sponge cake is best made a day in advance and wrapped in plastic, or even a week in advance and frozen. The sugar syrup and the toasting of the hazelnuts can also be done days ahead. If you want both a delicious dessert and one that will truly impress your guests, this is it.
For the Sponge Cake
Butter and flour an 8-inch springform.
Separate 5 large eggs. Beat the egg yolks in a bowl with 2 teaspoons of vanilla until they are thickened. Gradually add 3/4 cup of granulated sugar.
Beat the yolks and sugar.
Continue to beat until the mixture creates a slowly dissolving ribbon when dropped from the beater or a spoon.
Beat until a ribbon is formed.
In a separate bowl, beat the egg whiles until foamy. Beat in 1/8 teaspoon of cream of tartar and a pinch of salt. Continue to beat until soft peaks are formed, then gradually add the remaining 1⁄4 cup of sugar. Beat until the egg whites are stiff.
Beat the egg whites.
Incorporate 1⁄3 of the egg-white mixture into the beaten egg yolks.
Fold in the egg whites.
Sift 1⁄3 cup of the flour into the mixture and fold in carefully.
Sift in the flour.
Continue folding in the remaining egg whites and flour alternately, ending with the flour.
Pour the batter into the prepared springform and bake in the middle of a 350° oven for about 45 minutes, until a tester comes out clean.
Put the batter in the pan.
Cool the cake on the rack for 10 minutes, then carefully remove it from the springform.
Cool the cake.
Allow to cool fully.
For the Sugar Syrup
Dissolve 1 cup of sugar in 1⁄2 cup of cold water. Boil, stirring frequently until the syrup is clear. Allow it to cool thoroughly. Stir in 1⁄4 cup of dark rum and 2 tablespoons of orange liqueur (preferably Grand Marnier).
For the Fillings and Molding
Rub a dome-shaped bowl, 8-inches in diameter at the opening, with flavorless vegetable oil. Carefully cut the spongecake into three even layers.
If you plan to decorate the cake like the Duomo, cut a circle from a large piece of parchment paper, using the lid of a round kettle as a marker. Then draw a small round circle (I used an egg cup) in the middle of the larger circle. With a ruler, divide the circle into 8 even panels, stopping at the beginning of the small inner circle. Then cut out every other panel of this template (see example below). The Zuccotto Fiorentino can also look quite appealing with simply a dusting of powdered sugar on top.
Cut a pattern.
Chop 1⁄4 cup of roasted hazelnuts.
Chop the nuts.
If you can’t find pre-blanched hazelnuts, roast them in a 350° oven for a few minutes until the skins blister. Then rub them in paper towels to remove as much skin as possible before chopping. You can’t expect to remove every bit of skin.
Shave 2 ounces off the edge of slightly warm 70% chocolate with a vegetable peeler. You want to use top-quality chocolate for this recipe. I use Lindt Excellence Bar, 70% Cocoa.
Chill the shavings.
The chocolate shavings.
Zest 1 orange.
Zest the orange.
In a small bowl, sprinkle 1 teaspoon of gelatin over 1 tablespoon of cold water to soften for about 5 minutes.
Soften the gelatin.
Set the bowl in a small pan of simmering water, and stir until the gelatin is dissolved.
Heat the gelatin.
Let it cool, then stir in 3 tablespoons of Grand Marnier and 1 tablespoon of dark rum.
In a cold bowl, beat 1 1⁄4 cups of heavy cream until soft peaks are formed. Then gradually beat in the 1⁄4 cup of confectioners’ sugar, the orange zest, and the gelatin-liqueur mixture until stiff peaks are formed.
Sift in the powdered sugar.
Fold in the cold shaved chocolate.
Fold in the chocolate.
Brush the cut side of the top layer of the cake with 1⁄3 of the syrup.
Soak the layers in syrup.
Press the layer top- side-down into the oiled bowl.
Press the layer into the bowl.
Spread the whipped-cream and shaved chocolate mixture, and smooth it evenly over the top layer of cake.
Spread the cream over the layer.
Brush the middle layer of cake on both sides with half the remaining syrup, and gently press the layer on top of the whipped-cream and shaved chocolate mixture. Refrigerate until you are ready for the next step.
Melt 3 ounces of bittersweet chocolate with 1 3⁄4 cups of heavy cream in a bowl set over simmering water. I employed this somewhat unusual method when several attempts at folding melted chocolate into whipped cream resulted in the chocolate’s seizing into a million hard shards when it hit the cream.
Melt the chocolate with the cream.
Stir constantly until the chocolate has melted completely into the cream.
Make sure the chocolate is melted.
Refrigerate the mixture in the bowl until very cold, and chill the beater. This produces a quite bitter filling, which I believe is necessary to contrast with the rest of the sweet dessert. Taste it. If you find it too bitter, add some confectioners’ sugar when you beat the mixture.
Remove the chocolate/cream mixture from the refrigerator, add 2 tablespoons of Grand Marnier and 1 tablespoon of dark rum, and beat until stiff peaks are formed. Fold in the chopped hazelnuts.
Fold in the nuts.
Spoon this cream evenly over the middle layer of the sponge cake.
Spread the cream.
Brush both sides of the last slice of sponge cake with the remaining syrup, and gently press it cut-side down on top of the chocolate cream. Cover the dessert with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
Remove the Zuccotto Fiorentino from the refrigerator and carefully run a thin blade or knife around the edge. Submerge the bowl in a sink of hot water for about 10 seconds. Invert the bowl onto a serving plate. If the zuccotto doesn’t slide out easily, submerge it in the hot water for another few seconds.
Unmold the Zuccotto Fiorentino
The modern version of the dessert is often made to resemble the dome of the Duomo, the major cathedral in Florence. To achieve a simulation of this look, sift a heavy layer of confectioners’ sugar over the the dome of the cake.
Powder sugar the dessert.
Then using the 8-paneled template described above, place it carefully over the sugared cake, and sift cocoa over the exposed sections.
Using the template, sift on the cocoa.
Gently remove the template. If you like, add some sort of top to the dome. I used the top of a cruet bottle wrapped in foil here.
