Rigatoni with guanciale and caramelized onions is simply my elaboration on the celebrated Roman pasta specialty, pasta alla gricia. The difference is that pasta alla gricia uses no caramelized onions (in fact, no onions whatever), no peperoncino, and no toasted breadcrumbs. With just a little extra work, I believe that these embellishments add a substantial complexity to the flavor and a textural enhancement to the original recipe.
Slice off any rind that may be on the guanciale.
Remove the rind from the guanciale.
I always buy aged guanciale because it has a deeper flavor, but any version will due. If you can’t find guanciale, which is cured pork jowl, you can substitute pancetta or even bacon. However, you won’t get the same silken result.
Cut the guanciale into small dice.
Dice the guanciale.
Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a large skillet over low heat. Add the guanciale, and stir frequently for several minutes until most of the fat is rendered.
Cook the guanciale in olive oil.
If the guanciale has not yet browned and crisped, turn up the heat for a couple minutes.
Cook the guanciale until brown and crisp.
Remove with a slotted spoon to a side dish.
Slice the onions very thinly. Over very low heat, add a pinch of peperoncino (hot chili flakes) to the rendered guanciale oil in the skillet. Then stir in the sliced onions. Add a pinch of baking soda and a 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, and cook the onions slowly for 10-15 minutes, stirring frequently. Add a bit of salt to taste.
Cook the onions with peperoncino.
Then turn up the heat slightly, and stir constantly until the onions develop a golden caramel color.
Caramelize the onions.
Return the guanciale to the skillet with the onions and set aside off the heat.
The toasted fresh breadcrumbs are what gives this dish a a beautiful texture and deeper flavor. Use any unsweetened white bread. Place in a food processor until you achieve coarse crumbs. You can substitute store-bought panko if necessary. Fine dried breadcrumbs are completely unsuitable for this dish.
In a small skillet, heat some olive oil over mediium-low heat, and add the breadcrumbs.
Cook the breadcrumbs in olive oil.
Stir constantly until the crumbs are brown and crisped. Set aside.
The toasted breadcrumbs.
Grate some Pecorino Romano cheese and set aide.
Freshly grated pecorino romano.
I use rigatoni for this dish, which is traditional also for pasta alla gricia, but any pasta will work. Cook the pasta in salted water but stop cooking about 2 minutes before the al dente stage. Just before you drain the pasta, ladle out at least a cup or more of the pasta cooking water.
Gently reheat the guanciale and onions. Add some of the pasta water, stirring until it becomes a creamy sauce. Drain the pasta, and add it to the guanciale and onions.
Finish cooking the rigatoni with guanciale and onions, and add the cheese.
Stir in more of the pasta water and cook for a minute or two to bring the pasta to the al dente stage, making certain that the pasta is well coated with the sauce. In the meantime, gently reheat the breadcrumbs.
Turn off the heat under the pasta. Off the heat, stir in freshly grated Pecorino Romano, and blend until the cheese has melted and the pasta is well coated. Fresh-grind black pepper into the pasta to taste.
Serve rigatoni with guanciale and caramelized onions in bowls. Top off each serving with generous portion of toasted breadcrumbs. Freshly grate more cheese over each bowl at the table.
Rigatoni with guanciale and caramelized onions.
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