Frittata Savoiarda is a delicious, savory dish that can make a very satisfying lunch. The frittata, because of its ingredients, seems more French than Italian. That’s because the Savoy region straddles both countries, but includes Italy’s Piedmont area. For a history of the complicated Savoy, click here. The true Italian version uses lardo, a delectable and flavorful sort of salt pork, rarely to be found in the United States. Thus I have substituted bacon, and I find that the smoky flavor enhances the dish.
Cut the bacon into small dice, and fry in a 10-inch heavy skillet (preferably seasoned cast-iron) until golden brown. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon.
Fry the bacon.
Cut the potato into small dice. Add 2 tablespoons of butter to the rendered bacon fat already in the skillet. Sauté the diced potatoes for about 10 minutes, until they are golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon, and add to the reserved bacon.
Fry the potatoes.
Remove the dark green part of the leek. Cut off the stem end, and cut a deep cross into the other end of the leek. Spread the layers apart, washing under cold water to be certain all the sand is removed. Dry the leek, and chop it fine. Gently cook the leek in the saucepan with the remaining tablespoon of butter, until tender but not browned.
Cook the leeks.
Grate the Gruyère.
Grated Gruyère.
Finely chop the parsley. Beat the eggs lightly with salt and pepper in a large bowl, only enough to combine the whites and yolks. Stir in the bacon, potatoes, leek, cheese, and parsley.
Combine the eggs with the other ingredients.
Heat the olive oil in the same skillet over high heat. Pour the egg mixture into the hot skillet, stirring three or four times, while vigorously shaking the pan. Then lift the edges of the now-formed mixture allowing the uncooked egg to run underneath. Continue this process while banging the pan sharply against the stove and also shaking it to be sure the frittata is not sticking.
Fry the Frittata Savoiarda.
If it is sticking, try to loosen it with your spatula. When most of the uncooked egg has disappeared, remove it from the stove and place a large plate over it. Invert the frying pan, so the frittata falls onto the plate. Do this over your sink, so that any uncooked liquid will drip into the sink. Then slide the frittata gently back into the skillet. You may need to add a bit more olive oil before you slide the frittata back into the pan. Many recipes toss the frittata in the air to flip it, or they use a spatula, both methods of which I find risky.
Fry the flip side.
Fry and shake for a few minutes just to cook the other side. Once again invert the frittata onto a clean plate.
Let cool slightly, but serve warm. Though many frittatas are delicious cold, I find that cold Frittata Savoiarda is unpleasant, perhaps because of the potatoes.
