Cream of Vidalia Onion Soup

From April through August, the large crop of Vidalia onions provides a myriad of opportunities for interesting new recipes. One that I developed is this version of cream of Vidalia onion soup. This sweet, flavorful onion is grown in only 20 South Georgia Counties that surround the city of Vidalia. The onion is said to have been discovered in 1931 when a farmer named Mose Coleman found that his onions had a significantly sweeter taste than any others. Soon other farmers from around the area began growing their onions by the same process. Nowhere in the literature is there any discussion of the Vidalia onion being developed as a new species. Rather its distinctive sweet taste seems to derive from weather, the water, and particularly the low-sulfur soil of the area. Lower sulfur in the soil translates to lower sulfur in the onion, which gives it its sweeter, less pungent flavor.

Other farmers mimicked Coleman’s growing methods and a new crop of onions was born. In the 1980s the onion was trademarked, and in 1990 it was deemed the official state vegetable of Georgia. Since then the popularity of the onion has spread to the rest of the country and now seems to be available in supermarkets everywhere.

This soup contrasts the sweetness of the onion with a generous portion of savory, which has been described as both peppery and piney. There are two varieties of the herb, summer savory and winter savory, with the winter being more assertive. At my greenmarket in New York City, the growers never seem to distinguish between the two varieties, always marking the herb simply, “savory.” Use whichever one you find. And if it’s unavailable fresh, the dried version is a good substitute.

The smoky bacon added to the soup is another contrast with its inherent sweetness, but also it provides a contrast in textures. Also for textural contrast with the smooth creaminess of the soup, I add homemade croutons to give it a bit of crunchiness.

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