Swiss Steak: 1950s Retro Comfort Food

Many outdated foods do not necessarily deserve their untimely deaths. Swiss Steak, a 1950s retro dish, I believe, is clearly one that deserves to be revisited. As a child in Rockford, Illinois, we often went to a Swedish restaurant called BradLynn’s on Saturday nights. (Don’t even ask, Why Swiss Steak in a Swedish Restaurant?) My first time there, everyone ordered this featured dish, so naturally I had to try it as well. Immediately, I was hooked and insisted that my mother learn to make it.

The origins of the dish are not at all clear. Many claim that it has no history in Switzerland, that the name comes from the English “swissing,” which means to flatten a cloth by beating it or running it under rollers. (In England, it’s known as smothered steak.) Others claim that this is purely speculative. The dish first appeared  in America in1915, but it wasn’t until the 1930s that tomatoes were added. Apparently, Reynold’s Aluminum Foil is responsible for its popularity in the late ’40s and ’50s. The company suggested making the recipe on a bed of foil for easy cleanup. I do not recommend this at all.

Swiss Steak, mashed potatoes, and blanched Swiss chard stalks.

Many despise it because it brings back memories of an unspeakable version from their school cafeterias. Because I refused ever to eat any food from my school’s cafeteria, I never had this stomach-churning experience.

I don’t believe I have ever seen Swiss Steak offered in any New York City venue. Consequently, I missed eating it, so I began making it and adding it to my repertoire. Over the years, I have elaborated somewhat on my mother’s recipe, but have held its basic taste and texture intact.

It has many virtues: it’s inexpensive; nourishing; rather easy to prepare, uses readily available ingredients; can be made ahead; reheats; and freezes beautifully. Round steak, which is relatively inexpensive, is the ideal cut. Though not one of the more tender cuts of beef, it yields to the pounding with seasoned flour. Best of all, Swiss Steak, when lovingly prepared, makes a delicious comfort food, particularly on cold nights. My guests inevitably love it. Traditionally served over mashed potatoes, it can be an entire meal in itself.

To print or download the recipe, click here.